In The Lap of Mountains - i.e. My Mountaineering Training

Should be able to walk 15 km while carrying 15 Kg. load. OR Should be able to run 8 Km with 10 or 15 Kg at back OR Should complete 3Km/1000 Meter climb within an hour with 10 Kg. at back.” How would you feel if these are the pre requisites for doing any course? Eager to do it? And if it is conducted by Army then? Compelled to do it? ….. Well, these were some facts about month long mountaineering course I just completed. Like to know more? …… Read On :-) …….


Mountains, Trekking and overall adventure is where my heart is. So doing Mountaineering Course was my wish from childhood. But these courses are month long and that was main hurdle as getting such long vacation during school/ college and then during job was almost impossible. So I always postponed the thought or sometimes felt, it may not be possible. But then one fine day, decided, IT has to be now, Let’s Do It :-)


 Course and Institute :

Mountaineering Courses are conducted in India by 5 (Govt.) Institutes, each situated in one Himalayan state and all are affiliated to Indian Mountaineering Federation (IMF). These institutes are run by “Ministry of Defense”. There are two courses Basic Mountaineering Course (BMC) and Advance Mountaineering Course (AMC). Each course is almost month long (26 or 28 days). For AMC, you must complete BMC with at least “A” grade from any of these institute.

Since Govt. wants to promote adventure and mountaineering, these course are highly subsidised. (Our fees might not even cover our food expense. Total cost that institute must be incurring for each of us would be at least 10-15 times our fees). These courses needs lots of discipline and specialised training.  And Who else will have that but Army. These courses are conducted by Army…… So quality of it are always top class (Koi Shak ;-) ). These courses at these institutes are highly in demand, not only in India but globally. (Bear Grylls (“Man v/s Wild” famed on Discovery Channel) was also trained in one of these institutes for these courses). Due to this, courses are booked in advance as much as 1 to 2 years.

PreParation :-)

In Dec 2013, I was able to secure admission in JIM, Pahalgam (Jawahar Institute of Mountaineering and Winter Sports) for May -2014 (BMC) course. It is situated at Pahalgam, Kashmir (Paradise on earth) J&K state. With above mentioned pre-conditions for course, bit of doubt was creeping in back of mind. Walking with load was never a problem but running was never my forte (Just 500 mtr. Running would make me breathing very fast). That too carrying weight…..That’s why Endurance Run was always worrying part for me. And these courses were conducted by Army, so obviously you can expect No Nonsense…..

By last week of December I started practicing for long run. Started with 2 Km then gradually started increasing it by half Km or so (Not ideal….it should be less in one go). I would run every alternate day. Kept on increasing till I reached 10 Km at stretch and then continued maintaining 8-9 Km at stretch per day. It is short two lines here but going through it was tough. Sudden and acute pain in some or other muscle was regular as I was pushing myself. Sometimes calf muscle or thigh or toe or heal or any other muscles. Sometimes pain would be so much that it would make almost impossible to move but I had to ignore it and continue with my practice. Every time after first 2-3 km body would start getting tired and then it’s all mind game. It would be very tempting to stop but I never, not a single time, stopped before planned distance due to tiredness. Sometimes I have to motivate my mind for some distance, then divert attention of mind from running for some distance (2-3 Km), then scold it (for wanting to stop) (4-6 Km) and then again cajole it till finishing it (7-9 Km). While coming back from park (yes, practice it outdoor, rather than on treadmill, it makes big difference), I would feel very light or like having no legs….The day I ran 10 Km at stretch, I was barely able to walk but in office had to try hard, not to show it.  Every time after I finish running, I would feel very nice but every time before start, I would dread the pain. Every time again same routine…Sleeping at 12.30 in night (due to my work hours) and getting up early was no fun. Also, When you are of 18 or 25 yrs of age, your body adopts easily for extra efforts, but after that you have to push it more. One day, to practice Endurance run, I filled bag with 12 kg weight and went to run. But after run children and people in park asked me so many questions that I decided to run without weight only from next time onwards. This routine continued till end of April when I started my journey for Pahalgam.

The Course :

After 30 hours of train journey from Mumbai, I reached Jammu and then another 12 hours reached to Pahalgam (Via Khanabal, Anantnag). In J & K, Public transport is almost nonexistent, so you have to be at mercy of private operators.

Our institute JIM&WS is situated around 3 Km, before Pahalgam (Place called Nunwan) and at the bank of Lidder river. It is adjacent to area where Base Camp for Amarnath Yatra (Pilgrimage) setup. It is beautiful surroundings with Snow clad peaks all around and nice, cool temperature (Well, when not raining).

Our instructors were not only from Army but were instructors of HAWS. The High Altitude Warfare School (HAWS) is a training and research establishment of the Indian Army. It trains Indian Army personnel in high altitude mountain warfare and develops ideas and techniques for fighting in such difficult terrain. It is the one of the best mountain warfare training schools in the world.  – Wikipedia. Our Instructors are trainers there, So Do I need to say anything more :-). One of our trainer was also Everester (Climbed Mt. Everest couple of years back).

On first day we were given Track suite (which became our second skin), Sleeping bag, Sleeping Mat, Ruck Sack, Sling (Piece of rope) individually and allocated 1 tent for almost 8-9 people. Then we have given some stuff for group (We had 3 groups in batch of around 50 people). So everyone got something to carry, either Ropes, Carabiners, Pittons, Helmet, Mittons, Harnesses etc.

Schedule :

We had almost 13-14 days for Rock Craft training and 11-12 days for Ice Craft training. During rock

Craft training our schedule would be 7 to 8 am P.T. (for first 6-7 days then next 7 days it was Endurance Run), then 8 to 9 am Breakfast , 9 am to 2.00 pm Training like bouldering, rock climbing, rappelling, pitch climbing, stream crossing or Zip line etc. then come back and Lunch. Then Again at 4.00 pm to 5.30 pm Lectures like Cold Injuries, Avalanche, CPR, Glaciers, Mountain Hazards etc. Then free time or sports time (Volley Ball was fav. Sport) till 7.00 pm. (If somebody feeling sick then all those should line up at 6.00 pm and then instructor would take them together to our Medical Officer).  Then again Fall in (that is standing in queue) at 7.00 pm where we were given next day’s prog. Then at 8.00 pm Dinner and back to tents. 10.00 pm was deadline for lights off.

Discipline was paramount and we were expected to be in lines 10 min. before start of every activity. Shoes were compulsory everywhere, not only at fall Ins but even at dinner (Slippers, Floaters, chappals were not allowed) Also wearing JIM’s track suite was mandatory. All the movements, activities has to be done in queue or as per instructed.

I used to get up at 5 am (Getting out of sleeping bag in low temp. so early, takes bit of efforts ;-)), After morning chorus, wait for hot water. (We used to get Tea and hot water to drink at 6.00 am).  Then I would do pranayama till 6.30 (Not all days, but many days I did that). Then get ready for Fall in at 6.45 am. For P.T.

This first one hour would be grueling. Pahalgam is at 7500 ft. from Mean Sea Level. That means there is already less oxygen than what we have at Mumbai, So it would make Physical Training more demanding. First we have to run (may be around 3 km, I lost count of distance and time there) that too on road which would go steep up and down. Then as we start to go out of breath, keep on running while touching ground with palm, come up and then next hand, keep on doing it. Then keep on running with holding hands parallel to ground….then straight up…..then run sideways, then change sides…. Then instructor would ask us to stop (but don’t be happy yet) then position down for pushups (yes, on the road, sometime in dust). This one (Pushups) was our instructor’s fav. As we would do pushups any time anywhere. That too on fingers. Touch only toe and fingers and then count, 15-20 -25…. If any boy in group make mistake in taking position then that push up won’t count…after pushups again run. Then run on steep gradient, touch the tree and come back fast, We would reach at place of activities. Here we would be asked to do Sprints (deadly, already tired and then run without oxygen), twice, thrice then sometimes dyno jumps (Seating down on toes then jumping up with full force and hands up in air, shout “Hey’ and coming down on toes again) that too 25 then 15 etc., then if iron bars are available then on it or holding one another, pushups again in almost vertically upside down positions (yes on fingers always, 15-20……), then sometimes hold another guy at back, run and complete circle of ground. Sometimes crawl etc. many such exercise for 1 hour. Then come back running again with all combinations mentioned above or crawl like Scorpio but face skywards and back down or cover distance by jumping or combination of jumping and running. When we come near to our camp then..yes sprint again…..Don’t be happy yet, then at camp, 2-3 rounds of Lungady (jumping on 1 leg while folding another) then pushups again , then 20 touch downs, stretching backwards, sleep down and legs in air and many such stretching…. After that it would be over.  It would be nice energetic feeling once it is over but that 1 hour would take life out of us. This all was necessary to prepare our body to withstand rigors of climbing on rocks and Snow.

By the time we finish it, it would be 8.15 am. So we have to quickly finish breakfast and ready for fall in again by 8.45 or 8.50. Then at 9.00 am walk all the way again where rock face (around 3 km) is located for training. We have to carry all those things that were distributed to us, count and after training is done, count and carry back. Not a single miss of smallest piece like piton was allowed. If it is less then count, search would continue till we find it.  We may get Tea or Kava (Kashmir’s black tea) at 10.30 or 11.00 am.  We come back and finish our lunch by 2.30 or 3.00 pm. Some time we use next hour, if possible, for bathing or washing clothes etc. Then at 3.55 pm, (3.40 pm For group with responsibility to arrange chair) gather for lecture. Then after lecture some free time and at 7.00 pm fall in again (In whole day we would easily cover 12-15 km on feet). Again next day same routine.

Almost, whole day, we would be on our legs. I was feeling that we were ready for running or pushups anytime in the day (Sometime when rain would trouble us, we have to come back running from training area after we finish our training) Rain was the factor that would make life more difficult there. It not only cause temperature drop (sometimes as low as 4 degree Celsius) but wet our clothes, shoes and other stuffs which would take long time to dry and remaining in wet stuff in low temperature and at given terrain would surely be invitation to trouble. 

One day we went for trek to Baisaran (and ahead of it). It is very beautiful place and tourist has to come on pony as tar road is not there. It was nice climb and back.  After 3-4 days we had the long trek to Betab Valley and beyond (it was till just 4 km short of Chandanwari) and back. It was total 26 Km walk with our sacks at our back carrying our distributed stuff. Betab Valley is called so because Hindi Movie “Betab” was shot here. We went ahead and stopped 4 km short of Chandanwari. Road was blocked with snow

due to Avalanche previous day. All tourist vehicles were lined up on road and stalls selling food items came up. We went some distance further and rested.  At this place couple of scenes of movie “Ek Tha Tiger” was shot. Then we started back. We were tired but fine, most of us had blisters in foot. Other than that most of us were fine. Good point was rain didn’t trouble us much on that day.

Endurance and Rock Craft Tests :

After 6-7 days, Morning 1 hour of PT was changed to Endurance Run for next 7 days. Means we would do ALL THOSE THINGS like we were doing in PT but with Ruck sack at the back loaded with weight like Sleeping bag, Filled Water bottle, wind cheater, slings and other things to increase weight. While doing pushups, sack would move from back to head and make things more difficult, or while running sack would pull us back especially while running on steep gradient. After 6 days of Endurance Run, we had Endurance Test where we have to run carrying ruck sack with all given  load plus one stone weighing around 3 kg in our sack. Route was around 6 – 8 km. long. First half of route was gradual climb but second half was steep climb, uneven path and mud at many places. Based on first runner’s time, rest would be given marks. I was ranked 23 at first token point and 19 at second token point. Not sure where I have finished but must have improved. Finishing in first 20 was Not Bad considering batch of 50 ;-). Then after breakfast we again went to rock face and had other tests in rappelling, rock climbing and base making.

Ice Craft :

Next day, we spent preparing to move for glacier. Took all hardware, covers and other parts required from stores for 9 tents, checked it and arranged it pickup vehicle. We have been issued Snow shoes (weighing around 3 kg) , Ice Axe and Crampons (metal spikes for snow shoes which has to be put on in Snow only) to each individual. So we have to pack in ruck sack these things, clothing (normal/warm) for 7-8 days, sleeping bag, sleeping mat and many such stuff. My sack had additional weight of my SLR camera. My ruck sack was weighing around 18 Kg. Others too had almost weight around 15 Kg. in their ruck sack. It was very hard to lift a sack, once you put it down.

Next day was “Move to Glacier” day.  We had to move to Chandanwari- distance of almost 20 Km. from our base in Pahalgam that too carrying such heavy load of our Ruck sack (Mine 18 Kg.). It was 2000 ft gain in altitude also (Pahalgam 7500 ft.- Chandanwari 9500ft.) Also sharp metal objects like crampons and ice axe which were tied outside ruck sack were making life difficult (That day I had at least 3-4 bruises because of that). Slow and steady we started. I already had blisters and cut on one finger in my feet. First break we had after 9 Km., then had couple of more break. It was very very tiring and uphill climb. At first break I even placed cotton between my fingers. For last 4-5 Km, I was so irritated that I stopped talking to anyone. Finally after hours of walk, tired and  sweating, we reached till our base for Glacier training at Chandanwari.

Chandanwari is place where route for Amarnath passes through and tar road ends here. From here onwards a trail leads to Amarnath during yatra. But otherwise that whole area remains covered with snow. Other time it serves as tourist place as people come here to enjoy snow.

We had quick lunch and started putting those big tents in hurry as it has started raining. Finally we placed all those big tents and then rested. It was nice scenic location on the bank of river.  We use same water for drinking, washing our plates etc. But every time, after one put hand in water, one has to prepare for recovery time as water was coming straight from glacier and too chill, sending those chill waves all the way till brain through hands. 

Here schedule was bit different as there was no PT/Endurance hour. Rest of the part remain same as we would move to Glacier up for snow craft training from 9 am -2 pm then come back, lunch and lecture, fall in at 7.00 pm and dinner at 7.30 pm. But life was not easy, as there was no electricity, water was chilled, in night 4 layers of clothing and sleeping bag was inadequate, a nice trek for morning ritual (and we have to use Cat method – dig hole and then after wards cover human waste with soil – not to make any pollution) then spending 15 min. to get senses back every time we use water till I brush teeth…. (Every day at this point I would count days remaining in glacier and tell my mind, only these many days and then we will be back :-) ).

We had to walk around 3 Km in snow to reach training area. Walking at such gradient that too in

show was tiring. We learned self-arrest (how to control when there is a fall on snow slope, I liked this but was bit scary when coming down, head upside down and face up, on steep snow slope at high speed till instructor call “Arrest”), 2 point, 3 point, 4 point, 10 point climb (How to climb in different gradient from 0 to 90 degree angle) , Crevasse crossing and rescue, Base making in snow, Shelter makings and many other things.

Rain was a factor that makes life more difficult there. Every day after around 12 in afternoon, it would rain. Some times less, sometimes heavy. On one day we had lunch and dinner in continued heavy rain and one other night skipped dinner altogether, remained in our sleeping bag, during continued rain. But training would continue, in rain, in wind etc. In Pahalgam too rain troubled us on few days but here it was more.

One interesting thing here was Sentry duty. Each group had to perform each night.  9 hours (9 pm to 5.30 am) would divide in 12- 16 people. So 2 people would keep watch around whole Camp area for around 1-2 hours as per given slot. This is to keep watch on Wild animals around tents in night (We were staying in snow bound and forest area) (Snow leopard arrived in one of previous batches) as well as any eventuality like Avalanche or cloudburst. It would be difficult to remain out of tent in such cold nights (temp. would near to zero to one degree Celsius in night). But it was fun.

Finally we finished our Snow training, Completed Snow craft tests and marched back to our base at Pahalgam. Good thing was this time it was gradual slope, so that has reduced our efforts. After coming back to our tents in Pahalgam, we felt happiness of coming back to home.

Then next day we had viva and Written test. After that Graduation ceremony and Finally day to say Good bye. 26 days went so fast. We learned so much but I realised that there is still so much more to learn. Life in mountains is always unpredictable and always at risk as we learned while hearing various spine chilling Avalanche rescue missions that our instructors conducted. Personally too, I realised so many things and thoughts. But about it later some time :-).

Just like to note a thought which our instructor told us while discussing Mt. Everest mission and its difficulties – Harna nahi hai, Chalte raho, Appko Koi rok nahi sakta !!! (Don’t give up, Keep Walking/Putting efforts, Nobody can stop you). …. Yes Sir, Jai Hind !!!

- Amol Chaudhary