Tuesday, October 30, 2012

Tringalwadi Fort


Tringalwadi Fort           त्रिंगलवाडी किल्ला

Height                       : 3238Feet                                      Date           : 20th Oct 2012
Nature of Trek       : Simple                                          Duration     : 1 day


Author and photo courtesy : Amol

At 4:00 a.m. ……………

“But this path is vanishing in the darkness and jungle”,
“Yeah, but that’s the correct one, lets enter”……..
“Town ended so soon?”,
“Looks like we are walking through mountain with water on the other side”,
“Looks like, but can’t make out, which direction we are heading?”

This was a part of conversation between Me and Durwas and location was near Igatpuri when we were heading towards Tringalwadi- Our destination for this trek.

Tringalwadi fort. Situated in Igatpuri range (Near Nashik, Maharashtra) of Sahyadri mountain. Standing 3238 ft tall above Mean Sea Level and known to exists prior to 10th century. This was Deccan Hikers trek on 20th Oct 2012.  Me and Durwas, an equally passionate trekker, boarded train from Thane and reached Igatpuri by 3.30 am. It was unusally cold for october night.

As planned, we started trek at 4.00 am. But we didn’t know that there are few surprises waiting
 for us. We started right and I had all milestones in mind. First Ambedkar Chowk, Vagholi Pass, Tringalwadi phata and then tringalwadi village….yes all set……But then fun was yet to begin….Hardly we walked for 10 min. on dimly lit streets of Igatpuri and we were almost out of town and path was leading in trees and full darkness….first surprise….still we moved in that direction for sometime (off course we had my LED torch in hand which is required for situation exactly like this) …Then after some walk through trees we came across couple of buildings and street lights, one of it was water filteration plant…..But after that?... End of the road and End of the street lights….that was another surprise….can’t find anything………we looked around very closely, Then I pointed out in one direction (again in darkness) and told Durwas that this is the only direction which looks like a path and going somewhere. Durwas agreed and We started in that direction. Starting in that direction was similar to entering into magical pillar at London railway station to go to magic world in Harry Potter movie….and indeed it was magical….

When we started from Igatpuri, I was aware that we may have to walk in total darkness. But I assumed that there would be considerable distance before we come to border of Igatpuri town and then there would be path or road which would be almost on flat terrain till we reach to base village. Even Durwas had similar picture in mind.

But reality was different. So after reaching to end of the town, we have decided to enter column of darknes, aka Harry Potter…….. That took us to different world …..we were walking on what looked like path created due to human movement in the mountain. Soon we realised (because there was no question of seeing it) there are mountains towards our left and in front at some distance. At right and back NOTHING. Even moon was on leave. So that source of light was also absent. It was so dark that even if somebody would have hit us, there was no way to find out who is that and where it is. In front of us or back or top or upside down, human or ghost or anything. There was no Normal or Paranormal Activities going around. At least we couldn’t “see” anything (Hence don’t expect 5th sequel from us :-). It is impossible to shoot video in such darkness :-)). It was only silence, darkness and we.
(funny or Boring ly, depending on the way you look at it, we both were only talking about practicle points about direction, fort, path and time. None of us thought this interesting stuff that time)

 We continued with our walk with fair pace while totally focussing on path with white spotlight of 4 inch diameter from my torch. After sometime at very very far away towards right, we could spot a white line….Closer look revealed that that could be line of tubelights and it has its reflection too. Oopps…That means there is huge water body towards our right. So I told Durwas that looks like we are near a Dam. But that started many questions in mind. First was even though there is Dam at the base of fort, we should have walked for at least 1.5 to 2 hrs.to reach there. But it was just around 45 min we were walking. So How we reached to the dam so early? Where were other milestones that should have come before it? We were close to such huge water body , what if we get blocked by water?
While thinking all this, we were still walking at brisk pace. It was pitch dark and  uninhabitated area. Now path started to move towards left, more in mountain and away from water. After sometime we realised that now we were walking in semi circular path and reached almost towards other side of water but still at some distance. Now we came to another path which was lined up with tubelights spread wide and moving perpendicular to our path. So another question, where to go, RIGHT or LEFT?  Durwas asked me. Both ends of the path were vanishing away in darkness. I thought for a while and said left and we started moving on that path towards left. Now zigzag path started to climb uphill. After 3-4 turns uphill, we stopped to review our decision. And suddenly somewhere someone started playing devotional music. But who, where? Nothing was in sight except darkness. Neither down nor up. We decided to move up further. We took 2nd turn and……



Wow…..this is a PASS, Exactly like definition in geography- A Narrow passage between two mountains. And it has lights and some structures too…. Suddenly out of darkness, this was A Big and final surprise………… So this is Vagholi Khind (Vagholi Pass)


Discovery of pass put rest to all questions that were on in our mind till now. We had information from various sources but none of it mentioned anything in detail about path till we reach here. Perhaps all walked here in broad day light and all the things around were obvious. However, same things do not remain obvious when travelling through same path in the darkness of night. That is the reason we had conversation like the one mentioned in the beginning.


At Vagholi pass, it was very pleasant atmosphere. 5.30 am in the morning, nice cool breez with smell of moist soil. It has temple of goddess Saptashrungi. We decided to wait for some time. One reason was offcourse to enjoy the surrounding, but more compelling reason was to wait until we get enough light so that I can click photographs. Till this point, I sacrifised photography for the sake of advantage of covering distance at “Cool” time. But there was no way that I would have missed capturing this point and surroundings. As Sun was scheduled to touch start line at 6.30 am, half an hour wait would have been enough for us. So we utilised that time as snacks break, to take a darshan and then click some photos. We did not feel tired eventhough we walked around 5-6 km till that time.

My photgraphy session stretched bit longer (and as perfect trekmate, Durwas did not complain :-)) and we started from Vagholi Pass at 6.30. Enjoying perfect morning in village, soon we reached to Ghoti- Tringalwadi road. That road took us to Tringalwadi village by around 8.00 am

Tringalwadi village and Fort are exactly in front of each other separated by water of Tringalwadi dam. So we have to take pradakshina (walk on circumference) of water.
There are three ways to reach fort from village


i) Climb on the dam wall, move towards left. After crossing dam, walk alongside of lake water, without moving upwards, till you reach “Leni” (Caves with carvings of ancient idols) . Then take a path which will start moving upwards to reach at the top. Almost, all sources will explain this path.

ii) Climb on the dam wall, move towards left. After crossing dam, walk alongside of lake water. But a path will start moving upwards even before you reach till “Leni”. This gradual climb will take you to plateau and to top. We took this path

iii) After reaching to Tringalwadi village, do not reach till dam. Continue on same road which will move towards right from Tringalwadi village. It’s long semi circular road will take you to few village further and near to “Leni”. Take this road if you have your own vehicle. But for walking this is much longer path because road takes longer curve than other two ways. This road might have been extended beyond Tringalwadi recently. Hence none of information talks about this. We returned via this path.

We took second path and reached to first stage of plateau. We realised that this fort is not frequented  by trekkers nor by villagers. Dry grass was thickly spread all over the mountain. At some places even path was invisible. Good thing about this fort is, all the time whole fort remains “in sight”. There is no hindrance from mountains or tall trees. Due to availibility of this line of sight, we could walk till top level of fort despite of path doing Houdini act sometimes.

As you move along you can find low but long cave. Come back a little and climb rock cut steps. It will take you to 2nd level of fort. Left from here will take you to dilapiated “Wada” (old bunglow) and Right turn will take you to couple of “Taka” (A water storage tank built inside rock). At this level of fort, grass is very dense and easily a waist high.


Some places it is more than shoulder height. If you can’t see anything and start thinking “Kuch bhi dekhayi nahi diya, Aakhir sare chize gayi kahan….Kuch to gadbad jarur hai, Daya….” Then you will not be blamed. If someone doesn’t know what  “things to see” on fort, it will be obvious reaction. But since we could not call ACP Pradyuman or his team, we got in shoes of Daya and instructed ourselve (without swinging pur palm)  “Area ki jitani bhi jagah hai, sare dhundo, dekho kuch milata hai kya” ….. Aur mila….We got it….further down the path at one turn and at the edge of the mountain  there is small but beautiful temple of Shiv, Parvati and Ganesh.

From here, path turns towards left and climbs to topmost point of fort. Nothing much to see but there are very good “Mowgli Points” (Our definition for a place on protruding rock where you can sit to see nothing but deep valley below) . Path descends from other side towards dillapiated wada. Slope is so steep and full of grass that there are only two options. Sit and move OR Slip and move. No matter how upright person you are, you have to bend :-) .





We descended halfway from here and then took right which took us to a place, which looked like small hole in the mountain even from 50 ft. This is kind of Secret way and One can find steps only after reaching on top of it. Once we enter through those steps then we realise that it is actually a opening which leads to huge 65-70 ft. darwaja (fort main gate) on the other side. There is nice 10-12 ft.Hanuman idol carved on one of its wall. From this side there are huge, nicely carved 52 steps which takes us to near to plateau.

It was 10.30 am. We rested a bit in Darwaja, refilled our tummy with bread, cheese, sauce and jeera puri and started journey downwards. After getting down from steps, move towards left, came to plateau and descended further. Then instead of going towards right to Village we went to left to see “Leni” which we left earlier.


“Leni” or caves here are called “Pandav leni’. These dates back to 10th century. There are   three major part of it. “Osari” or verandah outside, There is beautiful carvings on its sidewalls as well as ceilings. Then there is cantral part of the cave, which is called ‘Vihar’. There were pillars carved out to support it but Three out of the four pillars have collapsed till now. Then innermost part of the cave called ‘Garbhagriha’. A statue of Lord Gautam Buddha can be seen inside it. But some recent painting on outerside of cave claims it to be Jain cave and Idol is of First Jain tirthankkar or Saint Adinath.


We finish exploration of caves by 12. So we thought of resting for a while and absorbing serenity of a place. After calming our body and soul for an hour, we started back to Tringalwadi village through longer route. From Tringalwadi Village we got into local jeep service for Ghoti. From Ghoti, instead of our now regular method of catching a truck, we decided to go like “Normal” people and take jeep to Kasara and local train from there. Programers working on zip or rar should take leaf out of techniques from these jeep owners. The way they compress 15 people in one sumo or bolero will put any compression program to shame.  Soon we were at Kasara and in turn to Mumbai. By 7.30 pm we were at home.

It was another very satisfying and unique trek. I must thank Durwas for being perfect trekbuddy. But I haven't answered his question yet,

“Where’s the Next?”


 
Soon, you will find out …….